Brunsvigia orientalis, B. grandiflora, Haemanthus. sanguineus, H. albiflos

[William Ross]

Hello friends,

I just received 2 year-old bulbs of:
Brunsvigia Orientalis (Winter)
Brunsvigia Grandiflora (Summer)
Haemanthus Sanguineus (Winter)
Also one 4 year-old Haemanthus Albiflos (Summer)
And 2 B. Disticha (One Summer, one Winter)

Help!
Info on the H. sang is that it requires a 30" flat plastic or terra cotta dish. Is this accurate? This and the H. alb should be in light shade?

Soil? Light? Water? Help.

There is a great deal of info on the net but I can't begin to describe how conflicting it can be. Would someone be kind enough to give me a condensed version of care for the above list? I need to/should pot these tomorrow and would hate to lose any of them.

Thank you.

William Ross.

[jshields]

Hi William,

I grow Haemanthus coccineus in 1-gal. and 2-gal. round plastic pots in a well-drained gritty mix. However, I have found that H. sanguineus is harder for me to grow than coccineus is. In any case, the winter-growing bulbs will need cool temperatures and direct sunshine in winter. If you don't have a greenhouse, a south window in an unheated room would be next best thing. The bulbs will tolerate temperatures approaching freezing for short periods of time.

I don't have as much experience with Brunsvigia.

I'm in a northern suburb of Indianapolis; you're welcome to drive up here and see what I have been doing with my winter growing South African bulbs. At the moment I have Haemanthus humilis humilis in bloom.

Jim Shields
Westfield, Indiana

[William Ross]

Thanks Jim. I would really love to see your collection. We travel to Indianapolis on occasion and I will be in contact when it happens. Anyone in this forum can laugh all they want - I don't mind at all. I've never purchased winter bulbs from SA so I don't have the info, and I'm not certain how to handle all of this. It's winter now in SA so do I attempt to match the temps and rain or, match the water requirements now for our season(s)? Can these really flip/lose half a year and still survive? How would you handle this? I have both summer and winter growing bulbs (with roots) in the correct sized pots with recommended soils and frankly, I'm scared to water them and worried that they will die if I don't. The summer growing Boophone has beautiful green leaves, 4-inches tall. I watered it. I have a winter growing Brunsvigia orientalis with a dark green leaf 2-inches long and I splash a bit of water on it when it's very dry. ??? Wm.

[Allen Repashy]

I have acclimated some imports.... both winter and summer growers.... basically, I put them in a good dry mix (assuming they come to you in a dormant state), put them in shade or indirect light, and just keep an eye on them. In my experience, I see root growth before foliage... I just pull them out (I only half bury them until I find growth if they are a species that needs to be buried) and check for new white roots..... Once I see root growth, I start to water lightly and then when I see some green, I give them a good soaking.... I do this for individual bulbs, as even bulbs from the same species and shipment can break dormancy a month or so apart in my experience.

You definitely need to take Jim up on his invitation. His website lists some great species I would love to see also...... Too bad I am 2500 miles away.

Cheers, Allen

[William Ross]

Allen: It's quite possible that you helped save these little bulbs. I carefully pulled each from their pots to find everything too wet and even a bit of decay on a few of the roots (roots on the bulbs as they were when they arrived.) I topped off the pots with perlite, using it alone to cover the bulb/roots and will bring these indoors. They simply won't dry out if I leave them outside. -- It's so humid here that you can dump water on a sidewalk and it can take a full day to evaporate. I wish I hadn't pulled the Boophone as it has a 5-inch root and probably should not have been disturbed. I think the pot is too small but it's probably best to leave it a year to simply become acclimated. ?? The soil (mostly course sand, pebbles, perlite, and a handful of Metro-Mix 400 growing medium) in the Boophone's pot is also quite moist. Do you think the Haemanthus albiflos (evergreen, summer growing) can handle moist conditions or, is it "in the house" for the lot of them "Thank You" to everyone here. Wm.

[Allen Repashy]

I had the same experience as you the first time around and rotted a few bulbs. I believe you are better just cutting off any roots that come on a dormant bulb because all of the white new growth I have witnessed on my S.A. Amaryllids has been a new shoot from the plate, while all of the root remains that came on the bulbs either rotted off with moisture, or dessicated. If the bulbs are showing any rot, I would clean them up and let them air out in the driest place you can put them for a few days, or until it dries over. If your Boophane is showing fresh white root growth that you pulled out, just gently dig a long hole and do your best to drop the root in without breaking it. It should be fine, and now you know your bulb is in cycle!

Goodl luck.

The H. albiflos I have are seedlings and don't seem to mind being watered all the time, but I haven't tried acclimating a dug bulb. They seem to be pretty bullet proof compared to many others.

[Allen Repashy]

If you have a bigger pot, you are probably better off putting the Boophone in the biggest pot possible now, rather than disturb it again next year. It is already disturbed now, so make your changes now if you can.

[William Ross]

I pulled all but the H. albiflos and will dry them out. The B. disticha's root is very much intact and was quite easy to re-pot. I cut back on the grow mix and added more grit. Thank you! Wm.

[William Ross]

Jim:

I will be in Indianapolis August 5,6. Will you be available for a visit?

Wm.

[jshields]

William,

Yes, I'll be home all day both days. I have one appointment at home on the 5th at 10 AM with the dog trainer (new dog in our house!) but otherwise I'm clear.

We have Crinum blooming as usual now, and Haemanthus barkerae is starting to bloom and one H. coccineus is blooming early. Both should still be in bloom on the 6th. There are a couple Hymenocallis in bloom as well, and there may even be a few daylilies still in bloom by then.

I welcome plant visitors, but I need to be warned ahead of time to make sure I'm not off running errands. The garden crew are here, but don't really know much except the daylilies when it comes to talking about plants.

Jim Shields
Westfield, Indiana
USA

[William Ross]

Okay Jim. I'll do my best to be more specific regarding which day. It would most likely be an 'after lunch' visit, for many reasons. I'll be in touch just as soon as I am able.
Thank you. I look forward to meeting you and visiting all your beauties.
Sincerely,
William Ross.

[jshields]

H. albiflos is tough as nails! I have had a tray of them laying in the basement, bare rooted and dry and in the dark, for 6 or 8 months. Irma, my wife, finally got disgusted and potted some of them up, since I kept procrastinating it. They are still firm and have some dark green showing.

It's probably a good thing they aren't frost hardy here!

You can water them somewhat all year round. The Drakensberg, their home turf, gets some rain every month of the year -- over a meter per year in some places; it just gets more in summer.

Some of my winter-growing Haemanthus have gotten confused by the cool weather we had in July, so two pots of H. barkerae are blooming as well as one coccineus, and I may have a scape starting on namaquensis. This will be the first bloom ever on my namaquensis.

Jim Shields

[William Ross]

Jim, Thursday the 6th, is my target date to pay a visit. My family and I have locked in a hotel 10 minutes from you. Roughly 1pm is best for me. I hope this works for you and I look forward to meeting you. Sincerely, William Ross.

[jshields]

William,

Aug. 6th at about 1 PM is on the calendar. If you need directions, call me, tel. 317-867-3344.

Looking forward to meeting you.

Jim

[jshields]

A bulb started from seed in May 1999 has bloomed for the first time. The first flower opened on Aug. 21st.

I can't seem to find a picture of B. litoralis anywhere in the books I have here. How is it distinguished from related species of Brunsvigia?

Jim Shields
in Westfield, IN, USA

[Tim Harvey]

I have often asked the same question and never found a satisfactory answer ... keep looking!?

T

[jshields]

I've started my garden blog up again after a 5 month hiatus. It's at:
Jim Shields' Garden Notes

In this entry, I've discussed Trillium, from my spring expedition to Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the biochemistry of "albino" flowers, and my Haemanthus bloom.

Jim Shields
in Westfield, Indiana

[Tim Harvey]

After thinking for a while, I was wondering if Brunsvigia littoralis has flowers which are mor red colored than josephinae (pink)?

I'm currently trying to cross 'littoralis' with a late flowering Boophone haemanthoides.

T

Originally Posted by jshields

A bulb started from seed in May 1999 has bloomed for the first time. The first flower opened on Aug. 21st.

I can't seem to find a picture of B. litoralis anywhere in the books I have here. How is it distinguished from related species of Brunsvigia?

Jim Shields
in Westfield, IN, USA

[jshields]

Haemanthus crispus seems to be the smallest of the red-flowered Haemanthus, certainly the smallest that I grow. Its flame red inflorescence is only a couple inches high, and one is blooming right now while several others have the tips of their blooms showing in the neck of the bulb. Maybe I can get a picture tomorrow, if the sun shines.

This is also the season when H. albiflos blooms, of course. H. albiflos is surely the dead easiest Haemanthus to grow. Mine have survived serious neglect and returned to thrive.

I'm still moving the outdoor potted Haemanthus into the greenhouse for the coming cold weather season. Fall officially arrived here about an hour ago, but it still feels like summer. After a month or more of mostly dry weather, we did finally get a little rain, about 0.25 inch. We could use more.

Jim Shields in Westfield, Indiana, USA

[jshields]

Here is the bloom on Haemanthus crispus -- just 2 inches/50 mm high from neck of the bulb to tip top of the inflorescence. It sure is a bright, firey red!

[amarguy]

hey Tim!

how 'bout some pics of your Boophone haemanthoides and Brunsvigia litoralis? Please!?

Ken

[Tim Harvey]

Oh, finished quite a while ago unfortunately.

T

[jshields]

I received my package from the UC Berkeley Botanical Garden yesterday. Among a few Aloe and Agave, I got one tiny bulb (ca. 1/2 inch diameter x 1.7 inches high) of Brunsvigia gregaria and a larger bulb (almost 2 inches diameter) of B. josephinae. They were out of B. grandiflora. I wonder if the josephinae will reach bloom size during my lifetime? and if it would bloom in Indiana even if it did get big enough? The B. litoralis that bloomed sure took a long time!

Berkeley Botanical Garden seems to be getting into mail order sales now -- lucky for me, since otherwise it would be a 3 day drive by car or 4 or 5 hours by plane to shop there!

[William Ross]

Hello Jim,

I really enjoyed my visit there and have many photos to share. I am completely swamped with work and haven't had a moment to write or even check in here.

You were very kind to show me around and allow my children to play with your grandchildren. EVERYTHING you passed along is growing. I even believe the topped (yellow) cactus you gave me might make it.

Good look with the bulbs. I'll send and/or post photos soon, with your permission and enjoyed your updates and blog.

Wm.

[amarguy]

here's a shot of B.litoralis at UC Irvine arboretum on Saturday, September 26th, 2009:

Ken
San Diego