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Ground Covers Open Discussion of all types of plants that can be used as xeric groundcovers.

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  #1  
Old 06-17-2012, 11:40 PM
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Default Effective Use of Round - Up

I have to completely remove crabgrass from an 8' x 8' square. Other than following the directions (and, off the top of my head, 1/2 a cup of RU to 1 gallon of water ratio), would covering the area sprayed after spraying with a tarp enhance the herbicide's effectiveness?

Any tips are appreciated - I almost feel like a spreader of Agent Orange, in that I've used it in such quantity (spray-bottle user only).

Thanks,

Jeff
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:43 AM
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If you used a tarp I don't see why you would need Roundup in the first place. Almost any weed or grass would be dead within a month or less.
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Old 06-18-2012, 02:17 AM
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To be effective, Roundup needs to be translocated around the plant. This is best done when the plant is actively growing. For this reason, Roundup often contains some fertilizer and is best used when temperatures are over 60F.

A tarp would not be a good idea.

T
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:37 AM
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If the plot is full of crabgrass now, it is probably also full of crabgrass seed so you may also need to use a pre-emergent herbicide provided you aren't planning on sowing seeds there...
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:07 PM
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Default Proper Dosage

I agree with Tim, a tarp would be a bad idea. It defeats the purpose of how it is supposed to work. Quite a few grasses seem pretty resistant to glyphosate (Round-Up) and one may need to use Triclophyr (Brush Be Gone) for better immediate effect. The other mixes that state they are effective for several months are those that incorporate a preemergent in the mix. You can spray the grass, let it start to die back and then hit the area with Preen to prevent seed germination. Depends on what you want to do with it.

Adding some ammonium sulfate to the mix will also help in spreading the solution on the grass.

Lastly, it isn't that large of an area that would prevent digging out the top 8 inches or so and preparing a new bed. Lots of work, but a good method for rapid eradication.
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Old 06-18-2012, 02:37 PM
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Default Crabgrass ID

I think we must first establish that you indeed have Crabgrass, as your strategy depends on proper ID. I've seen the common name Crabgrass loosely assigned to many different varieties, including Bermuda grass. Bermuda grass has underground rhizomes and is perennial, while Crabgrass as I understand it, is an annual and creeps by above ground stolons. See this link for ID:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/WEEDS/crabgrasses.html

Yes, the Crabgrass must be actively growing for Roundup to work. Since it is a warm season variety, the time to treat is now. Make sure the grass has been well-watered prior to treatment for promotion of lush active growth, then wait for a forecasted stretch of mild sunny weather to treat with herbicide.

Nevermind the tarp, unless you undertake solarization as a separate strategy. Your climate may not be warm enough for solarization, but you may find some useful info in these posts from Agavemonger and I in this old Dymondia thread:

http://www.xericworld.com/forums/sho...t=solarization

Boo could have a good point: 8'x8' doesn't sound daunting to me if you wanted to have the top layer of soil excavated and replaced. It may be more work upfront, but you could save perennial headaches in the long run. If you have true Crabgrass, you may only need to go a few inches to get most of the material, including the seeds. If you have Bermuda grass or something with rhizomes, then I recommend 6-8 inches, depending on your soil type.

MM
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Old 06-18-2012, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boo Hollow View Post
Adding some ammonium sulfate to the mix will also help in spreading the solution on the grass.
Do you mean to stimulate growth and therefore uptake, otherwise, how would it help spreading the solution?
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Old 06-19-2012, 09:19 AM
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Sax, Tim, Peyton, Boo and Matt,

Thank you for your thoughts, suggestions and ideas. I thought the tarp would intensify the effect of the RU (with the sun baking in the herbicide), and I don't really have a month to leave a tarp on the ground.

Upon remeasuring, it's a 10x10' spot, not that makes much difference.

Matt, you mentioned Bermuda grass as a perennial - it's certainly that, and even though it's quite cold-hardy, it's quite the underground crawler and seems to spring into every direction, particularly underground, but never gets more than in inch or so tall.

I know this is going against most of my convictions, but what I'm putting in are some roses, some pavers, and a birdbath and a bench. It's a honey-do that I'd like to do within a month, but that's negotiable - however, if I get them in in that time, the roses will have a few months to grow before Olde Man Winter visits us again.

One more question - how soon after RU application is it safe to plant? I'm not going to be using the top three to four inches of soil (the RU is particularly for the Bermuda grass runners that run deep), which will be tilled up and chucked into the compost canyon.

Thanks again for your advice,

jh
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cactusmcharris View Post
One more question - how soon after RU application is it safe to plant? I'm not going to be using the top three to four inches of soil (the RU is particularly for the Bermuda grass runners that run deep), which will be tilled up and chucked into the compost canyon.
Jeff: The label may say something, but your answer may be found in the section of this link subtitled "soil".

http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/emon/pub...mo/glyphos.pdf

MM
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:32 PM
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Default It's really quite simple

Mix according to the directions in a 1 gallon pump sprayer and spray whatever plant(s) you want dead. Use a pre-emergent herbicide, too, afterwards.
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Old 10-30-2016, 08:29 PM
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Soil solarization works well for me, against all grasses.

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74145.html
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